I've never been much of a sketcher, so I've never really kept a proper sketchbook. Some traumatic early art class experiences convinced me that I just couldn't draw, so I've found other ways of working. Usually I just imagine something in my mind and then start draping and patterning. Lately though, I've really been trying to, at the very least, document that process, so I can see where things started and how I ended up at the final piece. It's more like a design scrapbook then a sketchbook, so that's what I'm going to call it from now on. Ready? Below are a few pages from my design scrapbook - you can click on each image to view a larger version.
For this hat, the "Thinking Cap", I had a great jumping off point: a photo of actress Ina Claire from 1932 in an Elsa Schiaparelli hat called a "Mad Cap". (I love that little jacket too!)
Schiaparelli is one of my very favorite designers and this hat was one of her most popular designs - a knitted tube of fabric that could take on almost any shape. I loved the shape of the hat in this photo, especially the pointed crown. I always try to have at least three different draping options in every one style that I design, so I decided to combine the sweet pointed crown with a cozy hood and also a more masculine shaped hat, and to do it all in a woven wool fabric instead of a knit.
Once those decisions were made, I did a couple of quick drawings to play with possible shapes, perhaps a brim, and seam placement. I knew that all of that may change, but this was a place to start. Then I got to work on the pattern. Sometimes I'll start by molding paper to the shape I want, other times I'll start with fabric. This time I decided to start with paper because it would be easier to get that point in the crown. I used pattern paper, though sometimes I'll use kraft paper, tissue paper, or whatever I have lying around the studio. Pictured below are some of the earlier versions of the patterns. In my process, the patterns will get refined as I go along, seams will change shape, and new seams will be added or taken away. Each pattern gets a test cut in fabric which is then stitched up. Then I play with the test hat by draping, pinning, cutting, etc., all in an effort to see what construction will give me the most versatility in style. I have mirrors all around my studio, so wherever I'm testing I can always just turn to look and see what's working and where I need to go from there.
Sometimes I'll cut pieces apart and just re-sew, joining different edges together. It's always fun (and many times quite laughable!) to see what happens.
I also played with the idea of a detachable scarf, but nixed the idea for now, though it may end up on a totally different hat later on. The pieces pictured above got cut apart and reshaped several times. But all the while I kept one of my goals in mind: I wanted no more than four pieces to the hat, to keep both the fabric and labor costs down.
Several revisions later, I found that version #8 was the final winner. That's actually pretty quick for me! Sometimes it will take as many as 30 versions before I get what I'm really after.
Thank you for reading about my process. I hope you have a beautifully designed day!!
XO,
Terry